The Smile of Reims

The history of the Cathedral at Rheims (Reims - prounounced rance, as in France) is quite amazing. The foundation stone was laid in 1211. There was a labyrinth in the floor of the Cathedral with the four architects who designed this Gothic structure represented in the four corners of it. The labyrinth was destroyed in 1779.

The Cathedral was nearly destroyed itself in World War I.   Twenty-five French Kings were crowned in the present Cathedral. It seems that no King of France at that time would be considered a proper King, if not crowned at the Cathedral of Reims.  There is a statue inside the Cathedral, as well as outside of St. Joan of Arc, because of her role in the crowning of King Charles VII of France.  I was especially struck by the role that St. Joan of Arc played at Reims.  Her youth, her strength and her faith are certainly inspiring.  

The stained glass windows are breathtaking.  The light that streams through them changes as each ray changes throughout the day, creating thoughtful patterns across the walls and floors.

 Stories are told in the windows, tapestries and statues within and outside.  It seemed as if the entire Bible was portrayed in one or the other.  One could spend a week here and not be able to truly see or absorb it all.

The story and statue that I most enjoyed is that of the smiling angel.  

Through some research, I discovered that she might not have been smiling in her original form.  Though, I don't know if anyone knows for sure.  It appears she was quite damaged and placed in storage, partially repaired and then hidden again before she was completed restored and placed again on the structure.  She is on the Western Facade of the Left Portal (north) of the Cathedral. It was fortunate that I had a telephoto lens, as that entire area was fenced off for some repairs and restoration. I was so taken with her smile that the entire three week trip would have been worth just seeing her.  Her smile was joyful, playful, comforting and inspiring.  I heard her say to me, "you can do all things through faith, you are loved, you are precious in His eyes,  do not worry, trust, be compassionate,have hope, love others as you wish to be loved, do not judge, let go of all that prevents you from believing in the goodness of others and all that keeps you from love  Above all else, remember to love.."  Her sweet face is something I will carry with me forever.  If there is anything that a statue, a stained glass window or a tapestry should tell us, it is that.  To remember to love.

In my research, I found this poem and I think it gives a bit of clarity as to the message this angel brings.  

THE SMILE OF REIMS

"The smile," they called her,—"La Sourire";

            and fair—

   A sculptured angel on the northern door

   Of the Cathedral's west façade—she wore

Through the long centuries of toil and care

That smile, mysteriously wrought and rare,

   As if she saw brave visions evermore—

   Kings, and an armored Maid who lilies bore,

And all the glories that had once been there.

How like to thee, her undefeated Land!

   Wounded by bursting shells, a little space

      Broken she lay beneath her ancient portal;

But lifted from the earth with trembling hand,

   Victorious, still glowed upon her face

      Thy smile, heroic France, love-given and

            immortal!

Florence Earle Coates.

  

No matter what we go through in life, there is always hope and there is always love,  I think that is the pure message this sweet angel brings to all who enter Reims Cathedral.  

Chartres and The Labyrinth

    

I don't think I had any expectations about this trip.  I was filled with such gratitude about the opportunity, that I couldn't possibly have any.  Just being here would be enough.  And so it was...

After our long plane trip and another taxi and train to Chartres from Paris, I didn't think we would have the energy to even go to the Cathedral, but luck would have it, we could see it from our hotel room and knew it was an easy walk from there.  So, off we went. 

The Cathedral, in and of itself is spectacular.  You are awestruck from the moment your eyes gaze upon it from a distance and the closer you get, the more awestruck you are.  As we took it all in as we approached it and then went inside, I couldn't believe I was actually there.  The little girl from Western Pennsylvania's countryside has certainly wandered way beyond her roots.  Chasing rainbows, one might say.  Chasing something she has wondered about for years and now has the opportunity to see firsthand; not just in books or internet research. 

We did a quick walk through it, drinking in as much as we could with the energy we had left.  We paused on our way out, thinking about the next two days that we would have there.

The next day, we again made our way over to the Cathedral and drank in more of it.  Taking our time and sitting in various places to reflect upon it.  Thinking about how old this place was.  There is so much history to take in, when you visit a place like this. 

Chartres is a survivor.  It has survived a fire, the Crusades, WWII and the normal wear and tear of time.  Yet, somehow, it has survived and thrives today.  The labyrinth itself is still the original that was built over 800 years ago.  It was during the Crusades and the annual pilgrimage to the Holy Land, that the early Christians took each year, was impossible and dangerous.  The Roman church built over 20 labyrinths in the floors of various Cathedrals around Europe. It was to be a symbol for the Christians pilgrimage to the Holy Land. The people would make a pilgrimage to their local Cathedral and walk the labyrinth instead of the normal pilgrimage to the Holy Land.  I've read and been told that over the years, its use became out dated, unnecessary and the labyrinths around Europe disappeared.  They were either destroyed during the wars, taken out during renovations and restorations or simply not used anymore.  . Chartres is one of the very few that survived over the hundreds of years since this time.  How lucky we are that someone decided to revive the use and a few gems around the world, like Chartres, were discovered. 

And the day came when, suddenly, there I stood at the entrance to the Labyrinth in this amazingly old, beautiful and sacred space...one step at a time...so many others before me...in awe...I kept on walking...no great revelations...just a sense of peace and thanksgiving for having this opportunity.

How blessed we are to be able to travel all these miles and see this lovely, sacred space.  How blessed to sit awhile and reflect upon our lives; where we have been, what we have done and how we will spend the rest of our lives.  We will cherish this time.  This picture of Chartres Cathedral at night seems to sum up the peaceful, contemplative spirit of this beautiful and sacred space.

A Dream of Mine

Ever since I discovered the Labyrinth some ten plus years ago, I have yearned to come to Chartres.  When I found out it was only an hour out of Paris, I was so disappointed that I did not know this when I visited Paris with Ron years ago while he was on a business trip.  I honestly thought I would never have the opportunity to return.  Fate or destiny, has a way of bringing us where we are meant to be.
So, here I am, realizing I was but a dream away from this place all along.

After a very long trip of car to the airport, plane one to Dallas and then plane two to Paris and then n hour taxi to Gare Montparnasse for another hour to Chartres by train, we arrived very tired.  We quickly showered to refresh ourselves and off we went to get our first view of Chartres.  It was all I had imagined.  We searched for the Labyrinth, knowing it was at the center of the Nave.  It is covered with chairs, but on Fridays between 10 am and 5 pm, the chairs are cleared for walking it. Hence, our reason for being here at this time.  I hope we can walk it in the morning and then again later in the day.  The lighting at the Cathedral changes by the minute, season and weather.  This labrinth dates to sometime around 1200 and is made up of flagstones from the quarries in Bercheres, enclosed by bands of black marble.  It has never been restored and it amazing to see how beautiful it is.

Chartres Cathedral, in and of itself, is something worth seeing.  It is one of the UNESCO Heritage sites, if this is something that attracts you.  Being Catholic, Ron and I are drawn to Cathedrals and churches around the world, UNESCO Heritage or not.  Even if one is not Catholic, you cannot deny the beauty of it, nor the historical value of it.  It is the most complete and well-preserved example of Gothic Cathedrals.  The rose window dates back to the 13th century.  There are 172 stained glass windows, covering 2600 square meters.  They are of the finest collection in Europe, considering their age and beauty.  They are famous for the color blue used.This radiant blue used cobalt oxide.  One of the windows is called the "blue Virgin".  Later on, a less expensive pigment replaced the 12th century blue, known as "Chartres blue".  

We walked up 300 steps to the bell tower.  It wasn't as hard as I thought it would be and well worth the trip.  The view was breathtaking of the Cathedral from the angles seen from there, as well as the view of the village.  The narrow, spiraling staircase was beautiful as it led our way.  

After a walk through "old town", we had a lunch of crepes.  One with ham and cheese, the other with caramel  Oh my, were they both good.